A Walk through Islamic Madrid al-qasaba of Madrid. Abdallah Tawifq Velasco.
- carlosvelascomonte
- 2 nov
- 14 Min. de lectura
Actualizado: 4 nov
A Walk through Islamic Madrid, al-qasaba of Madrid
Arabic name:
Mayrit / Majrīṭ Meaning: place of abundant waters or springs
Etymology: from the Arabic majra (channel, stream) + the Latin suffix -etum
Building: Al qasaba of Madrid
Period: late 17th century – early 18th century
Subsequent event: destroyed in 1734 and replaced by the current Royal Palace
1562
This watchtower was a defensive or albarrana tower, rectangular in plan (3.65 m × 3.4 m × 2.9 m high), which protected the area known as La Sagra de Mayrit (Madrid), in the Arenal ravine. After the conquest by Alfonso VI, the tower became part of the Christian wall enclosure. Today, its remains can be seen inside the underground parking lot beneath Plaza de Oriente (Madrid).
Virtual reconstruction made in collaboration with the Center for the Study of Islamic Madrid.
The Watchtower Archaeological remains of the Arab wall (almudayna) — the oldest surviving foundations of the city.
T
These walls belong to the Islamic fortress, a watchtower built in the 9th century during the emirate of Mu ammad I of Córdoba, the same ruler who founded Mayrit (Madrid) as a defensive post against the Christian kingdom of Toledo
Current location: You can see these remains in Emir Muhammad I Park, next to Almudena Cathedral and Mohamed I Park, in the Royal Palace area.
What they represent: • Part of the original Muslim wall of Mayrit. • Vestiges of the alcázar or fortress that gave birth to the city. • Among the oldest Islamic structures preserved in Madrid — a testimony of its Andalusian past.
Madrid: Islamic Origin and Historical Evolution
1. The Birth of Mayrit
We will meet at Plaza de Isabel II – Ópera Metro Station, and from there, we will walk towards the Plaza de la Armería, in front of the Royal Palace, the very place where the ancient al-Mudayna —the Muslim citadel of Madrid— once stood.
In this place, during the second half of the 9th century, at an imprecise date between 850 and 886, the Emir Muḥammad I of Córdoba ordered the construction of a fortress (القصبة al-qaṣaba) and a small walled enclosure (المدينة al-mudayna). Thus was born Mayrit (مَجْرِيط), a name of Arabic origin that probably means “rich in waterways” or “place of streams.”
The fortress was built on a strategic hill, precisely where the Royal Palace stands today, naturally protected by the San Pedro stream to the south, the ravine of Campo del Moro and the Manzanares River to the west, and the Cuesta de San Vicente to the north. Only the eastern side remained more exposed, as it was flat terrain.
Its function was military and defensive, forming part of the network of watchtowers that protected the Middle March of al-Andalus and the city of Toledo, the capital of the northern frontier. These towers —from which names such as Talamanca, Torrelaguna, or Torrelodones derive— watched over the mountain passes of the Sierra de Guadarrama and the Central System. In times of danger, they communicated using signals of smoke or fire.
The watchtower of Mayrit was one of the most important.
The small walled enclosure, about 2 km in perimeter and covering 9 hectares, was divided into three main areas:
To the north, the alcazaba or castle-fortress, possibly rectangular in plan with a central courtyard.
To the south, the medinilla, inhabited by the civilian population that supplied the troops.
To the east, the main mosque, located where the Casa de la Música stands today.
The alcazaba also housed a ribat (رِبَاط), a space with a double military and spiritual function — a place where Muslims gathered to engage in jihād al-akbar (the inner struggle of purification) before undertaking jihād al-aṣghar (the defense of the territory).
There was abundant water: the present-day streets of Segovia and Arenal were once streams, and subterranean channels built by Muslims carried water across the settlement. In these fertile lands, they planted cereals, orchards, and fruit trees, and raised livestock. Thus, the first inhabitants of Mayrit —the earliest Madrilenians— were born in the 9th century.
2. The Wall and the Gate of La Vega
On the Cuesta de la Vega, in what is now the Plaza of Emir Muḥammad I, remains of the Islamic wall can still be seen, built with flint and granite stone.
It stretched for about 2 kilometers, with three main gates and several smaller entrances. Its peculiar brilliance gave rise to a legend:
“Upon water I was built; my walls are of fire.”
The Gate of La Vega, facing the fertile plain of the Manzanares River, consisted of two towers connected by a horseshoe arch and a battlemented passageway. It resembled the Gate of Bisagra in Toledo and existed until 1820. It is believed that the background of Goya’s painting “The Executions of the Third of May” depicts this very setting.
Nearby were workshops and trades linked to the military: blacksmiths, carpenters, armorers, shoemakers, tailors, bakers, and potters. Pottery fragments from this period have been found on Segovia and Almendro Streets.
3. The Main Mosque and Urban Expansion
Following the course of the wall along Segovia Street and crossing the present-day Bailén Street, one reached the Great Mosque of Mayrit, over which the Church of Santa María de la Almudena was later built (demolished in the 19th century).
In front of it stood the zoco (market), where artisans sold their products both inside and outside the walls.
Another prominent gate was the Gate of the Almudayna, on today’s Mayor Street, next to Factor Street. In the 16th century, it was known as the Arch of Santa María, until it was demolished in 1570 by order of Philip II.
In the nearby area there was a Muslim cemetery, and probably a ḥammām (public bath), although no archaeological remains have survived.Medieval documents mention baths near the San Pedro stream, outside the walls.
The Minaret of the Church of San Nicolás de Bari is in fact the former minaret of an ancient mosque. The current Medina Mayrit Baths are located close to the site where those old ḥammām once existed. In Islam, bathing was not only an act of physical hygiene but also
of spiritual purification and social gathering, reflecting the harmony between body and soul.
4. Daily Life in Mayrit
Mayrit was also a refuge for rebels from Toledo and a gathering point for armies, such as those of Almanzor (al-Manṣūr) before his campaigns toward the north.
Throughout the 10th century, the population expanded southward and eastward, beyond the original walls, forming agricultural and artisanal suburbs.
The main activity was agriculture: they cultivated cereals, vines, olive trees, saffron, vegetables, and a wide variety of fruits — pomegranates, figs, cherries, almonds, apricots, quinces, pears, mulberries, and walnuts — as well as roses.
The Muslims introduced an advanced water-supply system called viajes de agua (literally “water journeys”): underground galleries that transported water from the springs in the area of today’s Castellana toward the city’s fountains and irrigation channels.
5. The Christian Conquest and the Morería (Moorish Quarter)
In the 11th century, after the death of Almanzor, the Caliphate of Córdoba fragmented into several taifas (independent kingdoms). Meanwhile, the Christian kingdoms of the north continued to advance.
In 1083, Alfonso VI of Castile conquered Toledo, and shortly afterward Mayrit, probably through capitulation rather than by force.
The Muslim garrison was expelled southward, but those who remained —the mudéjares— preserved their religion and customs, settling on the hill of Las Vistillas, a neighborhood thereafter known as the Morería.
Its irregular street layout still preserves traces of that past: Calle del Alamillo, Redondilla, Granado, Caños Viejos, Alfonso VI, and the Plaza de la Paja, once a market for livestock and grain.
Even under Christian rule, Mayrit retained much of its Andalusian cultural, agricultural, and hydraulic heritage. The new settlers built upon this legacy, turning Madrid into a meeting place of cultures and memories.
Conclusion
Madrid was born as Mayrit, an Islamic foundation born from the hydraulic, military, and spiritual wisdom of al-Andalus.
Its name, waters, and foundations preserve the trace of that first community that united fortress, prayer, and daily life under the same horizon — that of water and light
That ribat called Mayrit soon became the main Muslim stronghold in the region, rivaling Talamanca for prominence. By the 10th century, it even occasionally had its own governor.
On the site where the Royal Palace now stands, during the reign of Emir Muḥammad I (852–886), a fortress was built with its main tower and adjacent walled enclosure, later expanded and renovated in the 10th century, with walls up to six meters thick — a clear indication of the strength of its defenses.
Separated by a ravine —today’s Segovia Street— the suburb (arrabal) extended toward the area around Cava Baja.At the intersection of Bailén and Mayor Streets stood the Great Mosque of Mayrit.
Another view of the remains of the fortress of Muḥammad IAnother view of the remains of the fortress of Muḥammad I
The now-disappeared Royal Alcázar of Madrid once stood on the same site where the Royal Palace now rises, in the Spanish capital. Originally built as a Muslim fortress in the 9th century, the building was gradually expanded and improved over the centuries until it became a royal palace. Nevertheless, it continued to preserve its original name — Alcázar.
The first major enlargement of the structure took place in 1537, commissioned by Emperor Charles I, but its final exterior appearance corresponds to the works carried out in 1636 by the architect Juan Gómez de Mora, under the patronage of King Philip IV.
It served as the residence of the Spanish Royal Family and as the seat of the Court from the Trastámara dynasty until its destruction by fire on Christmas Eve 1734, during the reign of Philip V.
The Great Mosque of Mayrit
Let us now move to the next destination — but do not expect to see a complete mosque. As we mentioned before, very few Arab remains have survived in Madrid, and it was common practice that, when the Christians conquered a city, they built a church where the mosque once stood.
In this case, not even the church survives.
What can be seen today are the foundations of what was once the Great Mosque, located on a small passage that connects Bailén Street with Mayor Street. The remains lie beneath a glass panel, and for those who are unsure of the location, it is next to the bronze statue of a man who seems to be admiring these ruins. His name is “The Curious Neighbor,” and many people stop to take photos with him.
After the Christian conquest, the mosque was transformed into the Church of Santa
María de la Almudena, which stood there until 1868, when it was demolished to build the present streets of Bailén and Mayor — a decision unthinkable today. For some time, the idea was even considered to make it the cathedral of Madrid.
There were probably several mosques in Mayrit, one inside the alcázar for the soldiers stationed there, but the Great Mosque was the main religious center of the city. Next to it stood the Gate of the Almudena, another of the entrances to the walled compound.
Church of San Pedro el Viejo
From the Plaza de la Villa, you can walk along Calle del Codo, continue through Calle del Cordón, and reach Calle de Segovia, from where you will already see a tall tower in unmistakable Mudejar style.That is the Church of San Pedro el Viejo, one of the oldest temples in Madrid, located in the heart of the Morería (Moorish Quarter).
This church was built on the same site where the mosque of the Morería once stood — as already mentioned, churches were built upon mosques.
The Real Alcázar of Madrid
The image of the Real Alcázar of Madrid represents one of the most emblematic constructions in the city’s history, located exactly where the Royal Palace stands today.
The Real Alcázar was originally an Islamic fortress (alcazaba) and ribat, built in the 9th century by order of the Emir Muḥammad I of Córdoba, to defend the territory from the Christian advances from the north.
Over time, it was expanded and transformed by the Christian kings, especially during the Austrian dynasty, until it was destroyed by a fire on Christmas Eve in 1734.
The model of the building, with its towers, sloping roofs, and Herrerian style, corresponds to how the Alcázar appeared before the fire, in its final stage as the royal residence of the House of Austria, very similar to the design of Juan Gómez de Mora and other 17th-century architects.
The Royal Palace Parade Ground
The Parade Ground (Patio de Armas) occupied the central space of the Alcazaba-Ribat.
In the Islamic period, the current Patio de Armas of the Royal Palace was the heart of the military fortress of Mayrit.
There were located the administrative and military buildings, the barracks of the garrison, and possibly the residence of the emir or governor.It was a closed and walled space, accessible only to soldiers and officials.
🕌 Religious, Military, and Social Functions of the Ribat
Inside or near the enclosure of the alcazaba, there was likely a small mosque for the soldiers and the emir’s officials.
Some historians suggest that its original minaret may have been the present Mudejar tower of the Church of San Nicolás, located nearby.
Therefore, it served as a center of prayer, defense, and territorial control over the valley of the Manzanares River.
“Nothing marks its location, and few people know the secret, but beneath the Plaza de la Cebada, extending southward, lay the oldest documented cemetery in Madrid: the Islamic maqbara, which held the eternal rest of the Muslims of Madrid from the 9th century until the early 16th century.”
This cemetery was part of the vast area that surrounded the southern outskirts of the
Morería.Although today no visible trace remains on the surface, archaeological excavations have uncovered burials oriented toward Mecca, confirming the presence of a Muslim necropolis in this area of the medieval city.
These burials followed the Islamic funerary tradition: bodies were laid without coffins, wrapped only in white shrouds (kafan), and placed on their right side, facing the qibla.The cemetery was a space of respect and serenity, reflecting the spiritual simplicity of death in Islam — the return of the soul to its Creator, and the body to the earth from which it was formed.
.
San Isidro Museum
Gate of the Moors
Islamic Cemetery
Christian Wall
Mudejar Mosque
Plaza de la Paja (Straw Square)
Church of San Pedro
Emir Muhammad I Park
Gate of La Vega
Great Mosque (Aljama Mosque)
Gate of La Almudena
House of the Lujanes
San Nicolás
Ramales
Watchtower
During the Islamic period, the area where Plaza de la Villa stands today was part of the inner nucleus of the almudayna of Mayrit — that is, the small walled enclosure that formed the heart of the city founded by Emir Muḥammad I of Córdoba in the 9th century.
🔹 At that time, this place was within the Muslim fortress (القصبة – al-qaṣabah), near the main gate that provided access to the west, toward the Manzanares River.
In the foreground stands the statue of Álvaro de Bazán, a 16th-century Spanish admiral, sculpted by Mariano Benlliure in 1891.
In the background is the Casa de la Villa, one of Madrid’s former Town Halls, built in
Madrilenian Baroque style in the 17th century.
🏛️ Key details:
Location: Plaza de la Villa, Madrid.
Notable buildings on the square:
Casa de la Villa (Town Hall, 17th century) — the building visible behind the statue.
Casa de Cisneros (16th century).
Torre de los Lujanes (15th century) — the oldest building in the square, where the French King Francis I was said to have been held prisoner.
Plaza de las Comendadoras
During the Islamic period, the present-day Plaza de las Comendadoras was outside the walls (extramuros) of the original Mayrit.
It was part of the fields and orchards that surrounded the Muslim fortress.
Only centuries later was it urbanized and transformed into the conventual complex that we see today Plaza de las Comendadoras
This building was erected around 1537, during the reign of Charles V, and later expanded by his son Philip II. It has no relation whatsoever to the Muslim alcazaba of the 9th century.
San Isidro and the Traces of Islamic Tradition
San Isidro, Muslim by birth under the name Idrīs, lived in a time of deep coexistence between Christians and Muslims in al-Andalus.
A drawing preserved in the Museum of the Origins of Madrid shows the body of San Isidro as it was found upon the opening of his sarcophagus in 1982: the saint’s naked body covered by one or several white shrouds, in accordance with Islamic funerary tradition.
San Isidro Labrador is buried in Madrid, at the Colegiata de San Isidro (Cathedral of San Isidro), located at 37 Toledo Street, in the heart of the historic center.
📍 Exact location:Colegiata de San Isidro (Cathedral of San Isidro)Calle Toledo 37, Madrid, Spain
🕋 Historical Context
The incorrupt body of San Isidro Labrador (Isidro de Merlo y Quintana), patron saint of Madrid, was found intact in the 13th century.Since then, it has been transferred several times, but since 1769, it rests permanently in the Colegiata de San Isidro, built to house his relics.For centuries, this temple was the main cathedral of Madrid, until the construction of the current Almudena Cathedral.
✨ Symbolic Meaning
The fact that San Isidro’s body was found covered in a white shroud, as in Muslim burial customs, has drawn the attention of many historians.It highlights the cultural and spiritual interweaving that characterized Madrid’s origins, when Muslims, Christians, and Jews shared the same land, air, and water — all under the same divine horizon.
The Chronicles of al-Rāzī, al-Ḥimyārī, and al-Idrīsī
Aḥmad ibn Muḥammad al-Rāzī (10th century)
Al-Razi and the Origins of Mayrit
The Arab chronicler al-Rāzī, writing in the 10th century, reported that in the territory of Guadalajara there were fortresses (alcazabas) and towns, one of which was the fortress of Madrid.
Aḥmad ibn Muḥammad al-Rāzī (Al-Razi al-Andalusī) — chronicler, geographer, and historian of al-Andalus, born in Córdoba (c. 889–955) — authored the famous Akhbār Mulūk al-Andalus (“Reports on the Kings of al-Andalus”), in which he mentions the fortresses of the Middle March, including the Alcazaba of Madrid (Mayrit), founded by Emir Muḥammad I in the 9th century.
Los viajes de agua, qanāt
En el Madrid islámico (Mayrit, fundado en el siglo IX por el emir Muhammad I de Córdoba), sí existían galerías subterráneas y conducciones de agua construidas por los musulmanes.
Estas estructuras se llaman qanāt (en árabe قَنَاة, plural qanawāt), y en español se conocen como viajes de agua.
🔹 Nombre árabe original: qanāt🔹 Nombre castellano posterior: viajes de agua o galerías de captación
Contexto histórico:
Los musulmanes construyeron en Mayrit una red de galerías subterráneas para conducir agua desde los manantiales de las colinas cercanas (como el arroyo de San Pedro y el de Aguas de la Fuente Castellana) hasta los aljibes y fuentes de la ciudad fortificada (almudayna).Esa red de qanāt o viajes de agua fue una de las razones por las que Madrid recibió su nombre:
Mayrit (del árabe Mayra o Magerit) significa “lugar abundante en agua”.
En resumen:
🏰 Época: Emirato de Córdoba (siglo IX)
🌊 Función: Conducción subterránea de agua
🧱 Nombre: qanāt (en árabe)
Al-Himyari’s Description
The geographer al-Himyari, collecting information from earlier sources in the 15th century, wrote of Madrid
“It is a small city and a well-defended stronghold.The alcazaba of Madrid is one of the finest defensive works ever built.It was constructed by the emir Muḥammad ibn ʿAbd al-Raḥmān.”
His description emphasizes the architectural and military excellence of the fortress of Mayrit, and how its strategic position turned it into a key bastion of the northern
frontier of al-Andalus.
Al-Idrisi’s Testimony
The great traveler and cartographer al-Idrisi, in the 12th century, wrote:
llAt the foot of themountains lies Madrid, a small butwell-inhabited town and a strong fortress.well-inhabited town and a strong fortress.
This brief line, preserved in his geographical works, confirms that Mayrit was still a thriving settlement, both militarily active and culturally alive, several centuries after its founding.
Comentarios